Many years ago, our resident food historian and beer expert Charles Perry wrote a regular short feature for The Times on various aspects of food history, etymology and other arcana. Stumbling across some of them online recently, I realized that what he had been doing was a kind of blog, well before its time. And so why not resurrect some of the best of them, now that technology had caught up with him? Here he takes a look at the roots of escabeche.
If you look at a can of jalapenos, you’ll probably see the words en escabeche on the label.