By Tara Fitzgerald
F&W’s roundup of the best restaurants in Mexico City, including a longtime lunchtime favorite among the artsy Condesa and Roma crowd. For more great restaurants, check out our guide to the world’s best places to eat.
Among Mexico City’s most avant-garde chefs: Enrique Olvera at Pujol by Enrique Olvera. Photo courtesy of Enrique Olvera.
Biko translates to “union of two” in Basque. That’s what co-chefs Bruno Oteiza and Mikel Alonso, disciples of avant-garde Spanish chef Juan Mari Arzak, aim to do with their Basque-focused menu, divided into sections named “traditional” and “evolution.” Prices are high—befitting the restaurant’s location in an expensive shopping district—but the dining room has a relaxed atmosphere.
We loved: Raw salmon with “smoke paper” (made from potato flour) and red and black caviar.
This local hangout near Zocalo and the Bellas Artes Theatre draws Mexico City’s politicians, actors and intellectuals with its old-school provincial Mexican menu and seasonally changing dishes. The scene is particularly buzzing at breakfast, where the offerings include fig and coconut pastries and hot chocolate poured from jugs.
We loved: Tacos stuffed with mincemeat and potato and steamed in a banana leaf.
This is a longtime lunchtime favorite among the artsy Condesa and Roma crowd. The menu by chef Andrés Barragán adds subtle but smart twists to Mexican seafood dishes—for instance, snapper is served with a red salsa on one side and a green one on the other.
We loved: Raw tuna tostadas with chipotle mayonnaise.
The traditional French dishes served at this stately split-level dining room include a mussel soup and a pistachio soufflé.
We loved: Oysters Rockefeller; Grand Marnier soufflé.
This elegant restaurant in the trendy Polanco neighborhood features chef Mónica Patiño’s small plates—a blend of Asian fusion and Mexican influence—prepared with organic ingredients.
We loved: Corn chowder with curry; duck tacos.
Locals pack into this 15-table restaurant for chef Enrique Olvera’s complete reworking of the Mexican repertoire. Among his playful takes on traditional ingredients and textures: squash blossom “cappuccino” with coconut-milk foam and a deconstructed quesadilla.
We loved: Three-grain esquite, a street-food-inspired dish with purple, pozolero and summer corn, served with clarified epazote broth.
Renowned Basque chef Juan Mari Arzak may no longer be involved in Tezka, but Pedro Martin is preparing his own terrific, Basque-inspired cuisine here. Unfortunately, the bland dining room could use a makeover.
We loved: Suckling lamb with a confit of potato, avocado and raspberry sauce.
Published at foodandwine.com